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Some of the rums in stock at Ecco Restaurant were made in Martinique. photo Mike Price
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Ecco Restaurant
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The Minister of Rum at work.
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Many in the community expressed interest in Martinique by attending the rum tasting.
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Almost 30 years ago, Ed Hamilton was a mechanical engineer selling airplane parts, and he wasn’t completely satisfied with his job. Having grown up in Florida near the beach, he wanted an occupation with a little more sunshine and a lot more freedom.
During one of his many business trips, his boss persuaded him that he wasn’t cut out for “capitalism at all costs,” and that he should start to set goals for a new career. On a piece of paper, he should write down something he wanted to achieve in the near future and list a specific plan.
“So this is what I wrote,” Mr. Hamilton told GlobalAtlanta, grabbing a scrap piece of paper left on a table in the bar at Ecco Restaurant in Atlanta.
“Go sailing. I quit,” he wrote. “And that’s the last regular job I ever had,” he said just before addressing an audience at a rum tasting sponsored by Ecco, GlobalAtlanta, La Martinique, Atlanta Accueil and the French-American Chamber of Commerce.
From that time until 1993, Mr. Hamilton traveled the globe performing jobs that were anything but regular.
He worked on oil rigs in Southeast Asia, taught sailing in California and built sailboats in Taiwan.
Mr. Hamilton bought his first sailboat, the Tafia, in 1984. In 1993, after an intriguing conversation in Puerto Rico about the quality of rums and distilleries, he set sail from Puerto Rico to Trinidad and everywhere in between, searching for the answers to rum’s deepest questions.
He published his findings—more than 150 rums and 35 distilleries—in a book called “Rums of the Eastern Caribbean” in 1995, the same year he launched the Ministry of Rum, his comprehensive Internet rum and distillery database and discussion forum for rum-lovers worldwide.
With his Web site attracting 20,000 unique visitors per month, it’s safe to say that Mr. Hamilton is a well-known and trusted resource. With aged rums and rhum agricole (made in the French West Indies from pure sugar cane juice instead of molasses) giving rum a more upscale image, Mr. Hamilton decided to put his encyclopedic rum knowledge to use by starting an import business called Caribbean Spirits Inc.
Although he was traveling, as he is 300 days out of the year, GlobalAtlanta caught up with him to talk about the state of rum imports into America and Georgia, and how Martinique’s rum industry is dealing with shortened supply of sugar cane after the ravages of Hurricane Dean.
In a recent email interview, the Minister told GlobalAtlanta that rum imports on the rise in the U.S. and that Georgia is one of his thriving markets, with Atlanta as America's "third cocktail city" behind Chicago and Miami:
The rum trade in America and Atlanta’s role
GlobalAtlanta: How have rum imports increased in the United States since you started your company, and how has that increase been related to rum's developing image as a more upscale spirit?
Ed Hamilton: Rum has grown at more than 10 percent a year, according to the Distilled Spirits Council. Since most rum consumed in the U.S. is imported, imports have grown by that amount, which is attributed to the fact that the rums which are being imported and consumed today are much better quality than what was on the shelves 10 years ago. Image is important, but if the quality wasn’t in the bottle, rum consumption wouldn’t be growing.
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VIDEO from rum tasting
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The Minister of Rum discusses Martinique’s rhum agricole and Delta’s nonstop flight to Martinique. video by Trevor Williams
QuickTime Windows Media
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GlobalAtlanta: How does the rum market in America compare to
Europe and other places?
Ed Hamilton: The American rum market is better than some countries in Europe due to our proximity to Europe, and everyone (in the Caribbean) has a cousin in Miami. But many European countries, Germany for example, consume more rum per capita than the U.S.
GlobalAtlanta: What types of rum have led to rum’s newfound respect?
Ed Hamilton: The sale of aged and so-called premium rums, which are defined by Distilled Spirits Council as those that sell for more than Bacardi – their benchmark without regard to quality; only price, has grown by more than 12 percent a year for the last few years. Although everyone is talking about the aged rums being the most popular and what has driven the sale of rum in the past few years, my experience is that there is a lot of young and even fresh rum being consumed, but again the distinction is the quality of the product being consumed.
GlobalAtlanta: Where do you do most of your business in the U.S.? One place, or spread widely?
Ed Hamilton: Bars and in the media, though the biggest markets are Illinois, California, New York and Georgia.
GlobalAtlanta: Are you mostly seeing rums going to California and New York, big places like that?
Ed Hamilton: Not necessarily. Colorado, Kentucky and Indiana are growing markets and the online business is a booming marketplace for better spirit.
GlobalAtlanta: Where does Atlanta fall on the continuum?
Ed Hamilton: I see Atlanta as the third cocktail city in America. Certainly there are more places where the bartenders know and care of the quality of their craft than in Chicago, Miami and a lot of other places.
Martinique’s rum industry
GlobalAtlanta: What is the Delta Air Lines Inc. flight to Martinique's effect on Martinique's rum industry, and how does that affect your business and the rum trade in general?
Ed Hamilton: Two years ago most people in the U.S. had no idea what rhum agricole was or that rum was being made on Martinique. Delta and the media have changed that.
GlobalAtlanta: How is rhum agricole different than regular rum, and do the differences make it one of the highest quality rums?
Ed Hamilton: Most rum is distilled from fermented molasses, while rhum agricole is distilled from freshly squeezed sugar cane juice. Imagine the difference between a molasses wine and a fresh sugar cane juice wine and you’ll begin to understand the difference.
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GlobalAtlanta: Does Martinique produce a lot of the world's rhum agricole? What percentage?
Ed Hamilton: Most, more than 50 percent of the world’s rhum agricole is made in Martinique and Martinique is the only geographic area in the world with an AOC mark for rhum agricole. Only a few other places in the world make rum in this style: Guadeloupe, Marie Galante, French Guiana and Mauritius make rhum agricole.
GlobalAtlanta: How will the rum industry be affected this year with Hurricane Dean's destruction of 70 percent of the sugar cane crop in Martinique? Are there seasonal limitations on rum production linked to sugar cane?
Ed Hamilton: This is will be a real blow to the industry since the distilleries only produce rhum about 4 months a year when the cane is mature, unlike rum from molasses which is made year-round.
GlobalAtlanta: How many rums are produced on Martinique, and how many distilleries are there?
Ed Hamilton: There are 7 distilleries producing about 40 different rhum agricole labels. In addition to the distilleries, there are a number of blenders like Clement who blend and bottle rhum from other distillers. You mentioned family distilleries.
GlobalAtlanta: Are there any special ones left, and how will they be affected by Hurricane Dean?
Ed Hamilton: There are only two family-owned distilleries left on the island, La Favorite and Neisson both sustained damage, but will be producing rhum next year. Fortunately the hurricane was early enough in the season that some of the sugar cane crop will survive until the harvest.
GlobalAtlanta: Compare Martinique to some other Caribbean rum producers.
Ed Hamilton: Martinique is the only geographic area in the world with an AOC mark. With 7 distilleries producing rhum agricole and another making rum from molasses, Martinique has the most distilleries of any Caribbean island and is recognized for producing some of the best rhums in the world. Several islands produce more rum but none has so many award winning rums to its credit. But with so many good rums to discover the best way to get to know this spirit is to visit the distilleries where these spirits are made.
GlobalAtlanta: Anything we missed?
Ed Hamilton: In addition to rhum agricole, Martinique also produces rum from molasses called rhum traditionnel. When you are looking at rhum agricole from Martinique, look for the AOC or
Appelation d’Origine Contrôlée mark. Following the introduction of rhum agricole from Martinique a number of unscrupulous rum bottlers have used the name rhum agricole on bottles of rum which don’t bear this mark and aren’t rhum agricole. There is even a Rum Martinique distilled in Mexico. Unfortunately, the US government overlooked this distinction when they approved the labels but they are being addressed by the Martinique rum producers association.